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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. But, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.